Miami Beach FL - May 2, 2009 --- Some may ask what Paris
has to do with Miami Beach. Nothing really, sometimes you just
need a quick get-away. Many times when you
go on vacation you want to do something a bit different than the
standard sightseeing.
Anyone can grab one of the run-of-the-mill sightseeing tour groups
but you are at the mercy of the tour operator for what you see and
do. Many times you miss
out on the authenticity of a city because the tours gloss over the
city so that you only see the major sights.
So on our trip to Paris, we decided to do
something a bit different. We decided to tour Paris by way of its most revered chocolate
shops. Paris has some
quite famous chocolatiers and our goal was to try to visit as many as
we could as we roamed the city of love.
With a quick search on the Internet, finding
the top chocolatiers was quite easy, seven or so went on our list. If on our tour we happened by one that wasn't on our list, so
much the better. Our
next step was to plan a general route because for this tour of
decadence, we only had two days.
When visiting Paris, we always stay in the
Marais. It has many
subway stops close by, which makes any
destination easy to get to. Before our chocolate tour of Paris began however, we wanted
to get an authentic French dinner. A friend recommended a visit to Le Hangar, which happily
wasn't much more than a couple of blocks from our hotel. When we arrived, we were nearly the only ones in the
restaurant however in no time, the tables inside filled to capacity.
Le Hangar -Salon de Thé (12, impasse Berthaud,
75003 )is a small home-style
restaurant that is tucked away from the noise and most of the
tourists. Marked by its
red canopy, it wasn't difficult to find at the end of a cul-de-sac
on Rue Berthaud. After
pouring over the hand-written menu, our order was taken by a very
patient waitress who didn't seem to mind me pointing to what I
wanted as the French words stumbled over my lips. To begin the evening we started with a nice bottle of white
Pouilly Fuissé from Bourgogne.
To start, the waitress brought a small plate
with bite-sized toasts and a bowl of what I surmise to be a pate of
olive oil, crushed olives, and maybe anchovies. Honestly, I don't really know what it was and of course I was
too embarrassed to ask.
I found a little went a long way with me. It wasn't bad; I'm just not big on fish or fish taste. It was greenish in color and spread easily across the small
pieces of toast.
For our entrées, we had raviolis de romans
crème d'au burgines (eggplant ravioli with crème sauce) and salad de
haricots vert (green bean salad). After our redeye flight from Miami to London and then a
two-hour train ride on the Eurostar (via the Chunnel) to Paris, we
were a bit on the hungry side so these delightful starters didn't
last long. The ravioli
was a very rich dish that was perfect in every way. The light vinaigrette over the green bean salad was just
right. Both were a
perfect way to begin our first night in the city of love.
The next course consisted of Sautéed foie gras
escalopes de canard and
Coquilles St.
Jacques (scallops)and risotto.
The foie gras was seared to perfection on a bed of creamed potatoes
with olive oil. The
creamy risotto decadently complimented the scallops. To finish the meal, a crème brulé and a café double ended the
evening with a sweet pick-me-up.
After a night cap of margaritas at the
well-known Raidd Bar (23 rue du temple 75004 Paris), it was time to call it a night and prepare for
the next day - touring Paris by chocolate.
The morning began with an omelette mixte at Le
Bouquet Des Archives (31, Rue des Archives) and two café crèmes. With our morning appetites satisfied, we were on to the first
stop of the tour,
Josephine Vannier.
This gem is quite close to
Place des Vosges, which was a perfect place to devour the first
assortment of chocolate. Our selection included a rocher and white
grand mariner while others in the lot included pistachio, which I
loved. Place des Vosges
is a perfect park to begin the enjoyment of Paris. It is the oldest square in Paris and was built by Henry IV
from 1605 to 1612.
The next stop on the chocolate tour was the
chocolatier Patrick Roger. Patrick Roger is best known for his rochers featuring a
contrast of smooth praline filling and crunchy shreds
of hazelnut. Roger's shop at 108 St. Germain Blvd is only steps away from
Notre Dame, a perfect
place to enjoy the new delectables. This cathedral, completed in 1345, is the epitome of pure
gothic architecture and the finest of French Gothic. Taking approximately 185 years to complete, it is a site in
Paris not to be missed.
Best of all, entrance is free and worth the view from within. One tidbit of trivia, the organ on the west end just inside
the façade has 7,800 pipes.
On the way to Saint-Sulpice, another great
cathedral in Paris, you can stop
by
Pierre Hermé,
one of the world's most celebrated pastry chefs (72 rue Bonaparte). So celebrated, you may stand in line just to enter this shop
that has one of the finest collections of cakes, pastries, and
macaroons.
A few more blocks of walking will bring you to
Christian Constant (37 rue Assas) whose chocolate is rated by
food critics world wide as some of the finest. Sights to see close by include Saint-Sulpice as mentioned
above and Luxembourg Gardens, a magnificent park. Constant, a master artisan chocolatier, had filled his shop
with meter-high smiley-faced eggs for Easter, surrounded by
chocolate chickens tied closed with pink ribbons. Another large chocolate display added protruding chocolate
faces all around the meter-high egg.
After spending the day sight-seeing via Paris'
most renowned chocolate shops and walking most of this time, even
with the decadent chocolate throughout the day, dinner was very much
welcomed. A quick stroll
through the Marais, we stumbled upon La Terrasse des Archives (51
rue des Archives, 75003 Paris). After our bottle of 2006 Les Abeilles Côtes Du Rhône and two
delicious steaks cooked to perfection we headed over to Raidd Bar
once again for our nightcap. Had we tried to do anything more than Raidd Bar, we would
have been too exhausted to complete our two-day chocolate tour.
On the last day in Paris and our final
"chocolate hop", we began at
Chocolat Mussy
(8 rue du Bourg Tibourg) in the Marais. A small shop with an entire wall filled with a variety of
dark and light cocoa delights. With four
degrees from the
prestigious Ecole Gregoire-Ferrandi, you can taste Sylvain Mussy's
passion in his creations.
If you are heading to
The Louvre, stop by
La
Maison du Chocolat (99 rue de Rivoli). This shop is also world-famous for their ganaches and
truffles. Not using more
than 65% cocoa in their creations, this is the chocolate for those
that don't like bitter chocolates. This is a great snack after waiting in the line to see the
Mona Lisa. Another
master you may not want to miss that is close to The Louvre is
Chocolat Michel
Cluizel at 201 rue Saint-Honoré. Michel is one of the rare chocolate manufacturers to actually
process cocoa beans himself.
With a quick subway ride over towards the
Eiffel Tour, there's also
Michel
haudun''s shop at 149 rue de
l'Universite. A master artisan chocolatier, you can find simple chocolate
bars and truffles to sculptures of the season. In this case, Easter, the store was filled with chocolate
eggs, bunnies and even lambs in baskets.
By no means is this an exhaustive list of the best chocolatiers
in Paris, but it is a list that is exhausting if you try to hit
every one of them. With only two days in Paris, it is difficult to
see everything but touring the city with little side trips can take
you off the beaten path and let you see real Parisian life.
Chocolate in Paris is not cheap. Each small morsel can cost upwards of 1€ or more with
assortments costing between 10€ and 30€. I also must say that there are many more chocolatiers that
are quite famous for their creations however you just can't visit
them all (or list them all). And finally, I will confess, no I did not eat all of the
chocolate in those two days. Such delectable chocolate is very rich and satisfying to most
any sweet tooth. A
little goes a long way so a lot was brought home to enjoy and remind
me of what a wonder Paris (and chocolate) is in the spring.
Oh, and as for the “best” chocolate in Paris? It was all good.
Each chocolatier brings a unique flavor to the popular treat. It was
all so very delightful.
My favorite was Patrick Roger, who offers a large assortment for any discriminating
taste.